Report by Salt magazine- Frances Frangenheim and Claire Plush

The previous, the present and the future of surfing on the Sunshine Coast share their adore of the wave.

THE Previous

His heart belongs in the two the sea and the sky ? and he has lived a daily life of helping other individuals keep safe in both.

And at age 74, surf and sky rescuer Hayden Kenny can rightly search back with no regret at two careers ? two lives, genuinely ? that had been profitable for him, but which were devoted to giving to other folks.

He was born in Granville, just out of Maryborough, but Hayden has spent nearly all his adult existence on the Sunshine Coast. It was the water that called him here ? the waves and the salt had a hold even before he knew it.

On New Year?s Eve in 1956, Hayden completed his Bronze Medallion at Alexandra Headland.

The a long time that followed saw him patrolling the beaches along the coast as a lifesaver. His love affair with the ocean would be lifelong.

?Before prolonged I was representing Queensland in Lifesaving Competitors which led to me winning the first Australian Iron Man Championship in 1966 at Coolangatta Beach,? he remembers.

Hayden admits instances have altered considering that he and his wife Fae 1st moved to the Sunshine Coast.

?Between ?57 and ?61, I surfed Noosa?s beaches alone. I by no means saw another surfer,? Hayden says. ?It was spooky. There was no a single else close to, not a car in the car park. Five men and women in the street ? that?d be a crowd. Noosa the way it was was lovely.?

As a passionate surfer, it made sense Hayden really should turn his hand to crafting surfboards. ?In ?62 we had a small store down the front of Alex there, opposite the surf club,? he says. ?I employed to form them, sand them, gloss them and surf them.?

The technological innovation of surfboards has been revolutionised because those days.

?Boards transformed from balsa woods to polyurethane foam. Foam was a technical improvement,? he says. ?I gradually got men and women to come work with me, guys from California, renowned for great craftsmanship which aided us move on and get a much better item.?

Boards became shorter and had a fin at the back, to permit for less difficult manoeuvring. ?It meant you could go across the wave with electrical power, fairly than just down the encounter of it,? he explains. He had a single of the 1st Malibu boards in Australia.

Surfing wasn?t initially embraced as a sport on the Sunshine Coast. ?Originally the only people that had boards had been members of the surf club,? Hayden says. ?But when the shorter boards came in, that?s when interest came in from outside of surf lifestyle conserving.?

His surfboard manufacturing firm, Hayden Surfcraft, now owned by Michael Hopper and Graham Cook, is nonetheless going strong at Kunda Park. Hayden nevertheless oversees the standard operation of the organization but takes a back seat to the creation.

Hayden?s 2nd stint in the rescue organization was in the air ? playing a portion first as a volunteer in 1979 and in later years as a hands-on company executive ? with the Helicopter Rescue service. Hayden was awarded the rescue service?s ?Crewman on the Year? in 1996.

Now in retirement, Hayden says he has more time for his beloved wife Fae and his family, who have a cheeky nickname for him.

?The kids call me the Fossil,? he says. ?To them, I?ve constantly been old. To them I was born old, you know? But they?re all getting old now, they?re all more than 40.?When you?re having a excellent time you haven?t got time to get old.?

THE PRESENT

Mark Visser?s life is dictated by sea swells.

When the biggest waves hit, it?s his task to be on them. As one of the world?s most talented, daring and disciplined professional big wave surfers, he?s one particular of the few athletes on the planet that will appear at a 70-foot wave and think it?s a very good idea to ride it. The greatest wave he?s ever surfed was a 76-foot monster in South Africa, and the longest he?s been pummelled below water for has been two minutes, though he can hold his breath for an astounding five minutes.

While most people say he?s insane, Mark says his intensive education is what tends to make huge wave surfing a plausible profession selection.

?I train actually tough ? it?s all about preparing for survival,? Mark says, noting he exercises for an intensive three hrs per day each day and sticks to a strict organic diet prescribed by his nutritionist and property delivered by the Organic Meals Retailer at Forest Glen. His help group contains his fitness coach (a former army special forces commando) and dive coach, rated 3rd in the planet for free of charge diving.

Mark explains a single of his toughest dive drills is to exhale all the air out of his lungs and swim laps with only a breath for every single twelve strokes so he?s primarily surviving on the oxygen in his blood.

?The thought is that it?s the very same pressure as acquiring smashed by a wave and pulled down in the water in which you?re fighting to get back up and when you do you only have a number of breaths right up until you?re forced below again,? he says.

At just 28, Mark?s come a prolonged way in a brief time, specifically considering he could hardly swim as a young boy. He was born in country Victoria and moved to Buderim with his loved ones at age 10. He was provided his first surfboard on his eleventh birthday, was seriously hooked on the sport by age thirteen and scored his first sponsor at fifteen. He threw his heart into surfing, but in his early 20s observed that his passion dimmed when the waves were modest but grew when it was pumping.

Right after three years competing in the Globe Qualifying Series, he determined to redirect his efforts to tackle a big wave surfing career.

?I went into it full steam ahead and really swiftly I got very good benefits,? Mark recalls.

?It was a clear indication I was in the right field. The far more energy I place into it, it came back to me twice as strong.?

His initial award was runner-up at Australia?s 2007/08 Large Wave Awards and by the end of his very first year of competing had three waves entered into the XXL awards for most significant wave ridden. Most not long ago he placed runner-up in the 2009/2010 Oakley ASL Big Wave Awards.

For now, competing isn?t his primary concentrate. As an alternative, Mark throws himself into different sports enterprise ventures and travels the globe surfing for the camera as portion of a 20-episode travel diary series he?s filming for Fuel Television. It?s a dream work that demands him to have his bags packed and be ready to fly to any continent his weather advisor predicts will pump out the largest swell.

Mark says some of the world?s most significant waves are in Hawaii, Chile and Fiji. People who know him know wherever to come across him when he?s not surfing his house break at Point Cartwright.

THE Long term

It?s not usually that a ten-year-old boy is faced with a selection that could establish the rest of his daily life.

But then once more Coolum surfer Kelly Norris was not just any boy.

Swimming from just four months old, the blue liquid claimed his heart and mind from an early age.

?I just loved getting in the water,? the now fifteen year old muses.

The ocean took the brunt of Kelly?s fixation, with the grommet learning to surf beneath the watchful eye of his dad, Tony.

But although Kelly was even now studying to grasp the reigns of surfing, he had already mastered swimming and his role as a Nipper. Kelly was crowned State Ocean Swim Champion in NSW and had won a handful of medals in the pool just before he had even began substantial school.

Kelly?s accomplishment was the principal reason his mothers and fathers Nicky and Tony made the decision to dig up their Terrigal Beach roots and replant them in Sunshine Coast soil.

?We moved for Kelly and his Nippers. He was education in winter in freezing water,? Nicky says.

The move delivered considerably much more than warmer waters.

Almost instantaneously Kelly?s talent was recognised, and sponsors for the two surfing and Nippers approached him. It was at this point that Kelly had to determine what dream it was that he wanted to pursue.

?I chose surfing,? he says. ?Because I enjoyed it a lot much more.?

It seems the soft-spoken teenager was on to something, as he has been reaping the rewards ever given that.

Kelly began getting into surfing competitions around Australia shortly after he made his choice.

This year alone has seen Kelly enter about fifteen contests like the Rusty Gromfest.

He has travelled to Bells Beach in Victoria, all over NSW and to Tasmania, in search of far more wins to add to his successes. He even convinced his parents to let a few mates tag along on a loved ones vacation to Samoa.

?We just surfed all day, every day,? he says by means of a smirk.

But daily life isn?t as straightforward as it sounds. He trains frequently at the fitness center and in the pool, on top rated of the countless hours he spends perfecting his type in the surf.

But the instruction combined with a ?bit of a diet?, has made powerful benefits.

At the starting of the year Kelly came second in his age division at the Volcom State Championships. He has also made the Queensland U16 School Boys Surfing Team two years in a row.

Kelly?s proudest moment, however, came on a recent trip to Stradbroke Island where he was competing for Coolum Boardriders Club. In his heat Kelly outshone planet amount seven Bede Durbidge at his property break.

As a lot as it shocked onlookers, no one was a lot more amazed than Kelly himself.

?I believed he was going to smash me, then I ended up beating him,? Kelly says, as though it is however to sink in. ?I was so happy when I came in.?

With the support of his school, the Coolum State Substantial student will comprehensive his final research above 3 a long time with subjects tailored about his interest in the surf market.Kelly?s objective is to make it onto the ASP Pro Tour by the age of twenty. But ahead of then he plans on competing in the Pro Junior Series.

While the modest teenager is determined to make a profession out of surfing he has already devised a back-up plan, possessing lined up a surfboard manufacturing apprenticeship with Noosa-primarily based Shotgun Surfboards.

?Shaping surfboards would be a very good task if I didn?t make it on the tour. Even if it?s just to know how it all works,? Kelly says.

In spite of all of his travels and plans for the future Kelly remains subject material with the breaks he finds at his doorstep.

?There appears to constantly be a wave close to someplace,? he says.

Particular SURF SPOTS

Hayden Kenny

Hayden readily admits that he no lengthier takes to the beaches to surf because it?s as well crowded. But forced to pick his range one Sunshine Coast surf spot, he picks Principal Beach at Noosa National Park followed by Point Cartwright and Moffat Beach. His board of choice would be a Malibu in the 9ft array: ?Easy to paddle and gets you on the wave early?.

Mark Visser

Anytime Mark is at property lengthy adequate to surf in between filming and surfing the biggest breaks in the world his break of decision on the Sunshine Coast is Point Cartwright.Kelly Norris

Tea Trees at Noosa National Park is Kelly?s favourite surf spot on the coast. ?Whenever the swell is big it?s always breaking so I normally reside up there. I only come home to consume and sleep.?

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